- This topic has 23 replies, 8 voices, and was last updated 8 months, 3 weeks ago by
.
-
Posts
-
-
-
I bought a Tisas several years back after I was assigned my RGN for a CMP 1911 in round 2 and realized it was nearly a year out. I think I paid $329+tax for a USGI pattern with plastic grips. I would guess I have fired about 1K rounds through it since I bought it and it runs just fine. Mostly I have shot 220 grain LSWC that I cast and powder coat. Without the lube they come in about 216 grains. I have also tossed in the occasional magazine of ball, jhp, etc. At first it would fail to go into battery, but on inspection I was loading the SWC rounds a bit longer than spec. Once I seated them flush with the case mouth the issue went away, and a tight throat would, in theory, make for better accuracy.
I would not hesitate to pick up a Tisas 10mm if I needed a 1911 10mm single stack. And if they offer the “Raider” frame with a rail in 10mm I will probably find the money for that even though I don’t need it.
-
The Tisas D10 is a surprisingly well outfitted gun for the money. Quality LPA rear sight, very nice checkering, decent slide to frame fit on my sample, and no MIM parts. I did the usual tear down and spit and polish on mine before I shot it, and was pretty impressed with the result. Installed a flat bottom firing pin stop, tweaked the trigger a bit and adjusted the extractor, and called it good. I was all ready to pickup the Yukon 10mm Commander bob tail model, but grew tired of waiting and picked up a Nighthawk Classic instead. Knowing me, I’ll still grab one if or when they release.
-
-
Picked up my D-10 a few minutes ago and I am impressed with it out of the box — and I have had Tisas 1911s before. It is, of course, stiff, and the trigger, while fairly crisp, is running 5 pounds 7 ounces on the Lyman gauge. I will field strip, clean and lube things I suspect it should start to break in pretty quickly.
If your Tisas was made after Nov. 1, 2022, the only MIM part will be the recoil spring plug, per the current Tisas FAQ:
8. Does my Tisas Pistol contain any cast or MIM parts?
Tisas does not use any cast metal parts on our firearms. The use of quality MIM parts on some models was used in prior generations of our 1911 products but in mid-2022 we began moving away from use of those parts. Tisas models produced after 11/1/2022 contain machined internal parts with the exception of the recoil spring plug which will continue to be a MIM part at a time to be determined.
-
Just got back from the range on the first outing with my D10. I had field-stripped, cleaned and lubed it — and polished the feed ramp with Flitz on a felt bob in my Dremel. Had failures to go into battery with both factory Winchester practice loads and my handloads. Several times, the slide would hang up a half-inch or so before fully forward. Just dropping the mag let the slide go fully into battery. Accuracy was so-so, but the factory trigger is at about 5 1/2 pounds — not optimal. The D10 did like my handload of a 180-grain JHC blem from Midway over 9 grains of Longshot.
Ejection was inconsistent, with nearly half the empties 8 to 10 feet diagonally behind over my right shoulder, the rest mostly directly to my right.
The gun definitely needs more break-in before I draw any conclusions. -
I remember seeing the TISAS 10MM in one of our local gun shops and just had to have it. I’m a huge fan of the 1911, especially series 70 model which the D10 is.
Once it was legally mine i first took it all apart, cleaned everything and lubed it up. I had no feeding issues with any ammo. I do reload for this now and I’m using 10.4 grains of Bluedot under a 180grain HAP. I did install a SWAMP FOX green reflex sight on it also. I’m getting 1.25’ groups at 25 yards.
My only complaint with this pistol is the ejection. It throws the empties so far and hard, it’s amazing how far they go. Makes it difficult to find my brass to reload again. I measured the ejector and its within .001 of a standard 1911 45. I thought about buying a replacement to experiment with by filing it down a bit. If it doesn’t work, I’ll still have the original to use. Appreciate any feedback from others that may have tried this already.-
Before filing the ejector, give a flat bottom firing pin stop a shot. It will slow the slide velocity by changing the leverage the slide has on the hammer. It will make the slide harder to rack with the hammer down, but this can be workaround (if it’s an issue for you) by cocking the hammer before operating the slide.
This is the first change I make to any 10mm 1911. In fact, a flat bottom stop with very minimal break on the edge was the original part shape. It was changed during the post WWI changes that became the 1911A1. GI’s complained it was too hard to rack the slide with the hammer down.
-
-
-
-
-
-
BillinTexas, the Wilson works perfectly in the Tisas, it’s what I put in mine. I did have to trim the top to clear the adjustable sight. I can also say that it didn’t make a great deal of difference, if any. This Tisas, as well as both my Nighthawk 10mm’s launch the brass 30 feet, even with flat bottom firing pin stops and heavy main and recoil springs. It’s the nature of 10mm 1911’s, they are never going to drop empties 6 feet away with full power loads.
-
-
I put a square bottom firing pin stop in my Kimber. It helped a little with the mild and mid range loads but the full pressure loads still launch way out there. My Springfield XDM throws them a ways also.
My buddy had a Rock Island 2011 style 10mm. For some reason that thing dropped all the brass 8 to 12 feet away. Even my 200gr hard cast reloads. Don’t know what they did different.
-
I had a Tisas BR9 High power copy and it was a great gun.
About a year ago I bought a Tisas .45 Commander size and it has been great from the get go.
Two problems with the Tisas 1911’s seem to be it needs a stronger safety spring and the extractors need reshaped or replaced.I bet the 10mm version is a real gem and I would love to have one.
-
At this point I’m a bit shy on buying a Turkish gun after my Girsan experience. I would like to hear some feedback on the Tisas customer service. The only thing that saved my bacon with the Girsan Hunter was that it was bought from Davidson’s. THEY had my back and provided EXCELLENT customer service, whereas the American importer would do nothing.
-
-
-
I picked up a D-10 last week, and it’s a shooter. It DOES launch brass into lower Earth orbit, like most 10mm 1911s. I am pretty happy with the workmanship of these Tisas pistols ( I have two 9mm and a .45, too). It likes PPU Personal Defense loads pretty well,and Winchester Ranger bonded 180s very well, too. Not so much Magtech FMJ, but that’s just for plinking and brass (if you can find it!).
-
I’ve been fortunate to find some brass for reloading. I picked up 300 Sig brass for a good price. The reviews on it are very good and it’s working okay for me.
I’m shooting 185 grain XTP’s over 10.4gr of Blue Dot. Also just found some Montana Gold 165 grain JHP’s and need to test some loads with them. -
I took my D-10 out to the range for it’s second outing yesterday. It likes the Magtech ammo more and more as it gets worn-in. I like it. I was able to find a larger percentage of my cases this time, too. I had some old 180g. RNFP ammo I loaded about 20 years ago, and it shot quite well in the new pistol. I shot it alongside my RIA Ultra 6″ pistol, and while the RIA shot a little better, it’s trigger is a LOT better OOB, and the extra sight radius is helpful, too. I’m pretty happy with both pistols, to tell the truth, but the Tisas will carry a lot easier than the porked-up RIA.
-
I decided to get into the guts of my D-10 and fix the mediocre trigger. I had more time and trouble finding an Allen wrench to fit the cursed metric grip screw heads than I did lightening the trigger. Once I got the grip sorted out (it’s got an ambi safety, and the right grip panel had to come off), I had it down to about 4lbs. within 10 minutes. It feels REALLY good now, and I expect to be able to shoot it somewhat better now.
Now, I’m going to order some slot-tip screws for the grips, as I never liked Allen screws anyway, and especially those cursed metrics.
-
-
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.