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General Discussion / A 10mm video review I can stand
« on: September 13, 2017, 10:10:49 AM »

This is a pretty balanced comparison of the 10mm as defense round to the 45 ACP.  The author correctly identifies the 10mm as more powerful, even significantly so.  He demonstrates that the additional power doesn't impact his speed or accuracy when shooting plates.

He gets into the details of the "Fish" case in AZ and debunks a good bit of the FUDD surrounding that case and the 10mm.

And the real world test against a simulated thoracic cavity was one of the best I have seen.  And again shows the 10mm to be a markedly better performer, though the author seemed to miss out on some aspects of the better performance.

The only real misses in the video as far as I am concerned were this:

1. Though the 10mm thoroughly destroyed both simulated lungs, which would have lead to twice the exsanguination of the assailant, he only notes the performance as marginally better.  I attribute this to not fully considering how much lungs will bleed, and the importance of bleed rate in winning a defensive encounter.

2.  He does a third test with the 45 using 230 grain ball ammo, and extols its very valid virtues as a defensive round given it's penetration.  However, he does not afford the 10mm a similar test using 200 grain FMJ or TC ammo.  He says that the tests could "gone on forever", and I agree you have to draw a line at some point, but the line should have been drawn either before the 230 grain test, or after the 10mm had it's chance with 200 grain ammo.

3.  He predominately uses 185 grain JHP 45 ACP vs 180 grain JHP 10mm.  This gives a velocity advantage to the 45 and a sectional density advantage to the 10mm.  A more "fair" approach IMHO would be to compare 180 grain 10mm to 230 grain 45 ACP as these share the same sectional density.  Using the same weight seems like an apples to apples comparison, but it isn't.

4.  The author alludes to the additional cost of ammo at the local gun store.  I can't argue that 10mm ammo will be more at the local gunstore, but who buys ammo in large quantities at a local store, unless it is on sale.  It is 2017, buy your ammo online.  And if you shop, that price advantage becomes very, very small.

Despite these items, the video was informative and accurate.  One of the better 10mm comparison vids I have seen.

Gear/Equipment / Sig 1911 mags
« on: September 06, 2017, 08:25:52 AM »
Anyone know if the Sig 1911 mags for 40/357 sig will fit a 10mm or if they have a removable block in them?

I am hoping the either work or can be made to work since at this price I ordered four.  I figure worst case I can wait till they are off sale here and then sell them.

10mm semi-auto handguns / Guns that could be
« on: August 25, 2017, 09:04:28 AM »
I went on a semi-rant in the Ed Brown LS10 thread about how I am a bit weary of new larger than service sidearm sized 10mm handguns.  I want options in a gun I can carry in comfort all day long.  And for years I carried a P16-40/10mm IWB, so that isn't a particularly high bar.

But there is a dearth of compact 10mm auto guns on the market.  The only option if you want a gun that you have a degree of confidence is the Glock G29.  Now I am a lifetime GSSF member and I like my two Glocks.  But they have no soul.

So, here is my list of guns I wish were in 10mm auto.  I have broken them up into both guns I would buy, as well as guns I think would sell, though not to me.

Guns I would buy if they came in 10mm at the same price as the 45 ACP version

  • HK USP 45 Compact
  • HK HK45 Compact
  • Sig P227 Carry
  • FNX-45 (Not tactical/longbarrel, just the straight FNX 45, more points for a compact model)
  • Walther PPQ
  • Ruger American Compact
  • 1911 lightweight Commander HC
  • 1911 CCO HC

Guns that I think would do well if they came in 10mm at the same price as the 45 ACP version

  • SpringfieldXD Mod.2 3.3"
  • Springfield XDs
  • S&W M&P Compact
  • S&W M&P Shield
  • Kahr PM45

Same price is a big part of this.  I might even go a $50 or even $100 premium at street price.  But as we see with the P220, too often the 10mm version is a  $200-$400 more street price than the same gun in 45 ACP, and I won't pay that premium.

So, make your lists and post them up.  And don't try to be unique.  If one, two or three of my or some else' guns look good to you, put them on your list.  I am NOT doing the "poll" thing, cause I am sure there are options I didn't think of and I don't want them in "Other".  I wanna know what they are.

Factory 10mm ammo / Clearance at Grafs
« on: August 21, 2017, 11:05:00 AM »
Just FYI.  No nothing about this ammo.

10mm semi-auto handguns / P220 Legion 10mm on Gunbroker
« on: August 20, 2017, 11:14:41 AM »

Looks like the standard Legion upgrades.  This is DA/SA, not SAO as was rumored.  The dealer expects to get them tomorrow.

Gunsmithing / 1911 Extractor Work
« on: August 16, 2017, 07:33:08 AM »
During the conversation in a thread about primer flow, I mentioned that my RIA HC was having three point jams.  The most common cause of this issue is a poorly fit extractor.

Last night I checked and sure enough, the extractor, while having good tension, was not well fit to my gun otherwise.  So I took some pics and thought I would share what I did (and what I may go on to do).

My extractor was a big hunk-o-metal hanging out in the breech face:

No wonder I was getting three point jams.

I have applied a radius to the bottom that makes it a smooth transition rather than that shelf to get past.  I will test this alteration and if I still have the issue, I will further remove material so the extractor groove does not extend beyond the edge of the breech face at all.  In most cases, easing the transition is enough.

For those that are interested in how to do this.

1.  Remove the magazine and ensure the gun is not loaded
2.  Field strip the gun
3.  Using an exacto-knife or scribe, scribe on the bottom of the extractor a line where the side of the breech intersects
3.  Using a small punch depress the firing pin while pushing the firing pin stop down a small amount
4.  Carefully remove the firing pin stop full, capturing the firing pin with your thumb*
5.  Using great care and/or a non-marring tool, pry the extractor back about 1/16", until the extractor hook hits the breech face
6.  Push the extractor hook towards the side of the slide and down to clear the breech face
7.  Fully pry the extractor from the slide
8.  Using a very fine file, or emery cloth, dress the lower edge of the extractor to apply a radius that meets the scribed line
9.  Re-install the extractor, firing pin spring, firing pin, and firing pin stop
10.  Re-assemble the pistol

I did all this with my Leatherman Wave while watching NCIS.  If you haven't stripped a 1911 slide before, watch a Youtube video on detail stripping a 1911 slide for the finer points of removing the extractor.

The other cause of three-point jams can be a weak magazine spring.  The magazine spring does more in the feeding process than push rounds up through the magazine.  When the round being loaded clears the magazine feed lips, it gets a bump from the round below.  This bump sends it fully into the breech face.

High capacity 1911's are more susceptible to three point jams for two reasons. 

First, there is lots more friction in a double stack magazine than in a single stack magazine.  Rounds are being pushed into the sides of the magazine, which makes more work for the spring.  This is why three point jams in HC 1911's are more common in the first 7-8 rounds out of the mag than the last 7-8 rounds.  Double the friction.  This is far worse if the extractor has a ledge rather than a smooth transition.

Second, the bump the fed round gets from the round below is not perfectly straight up.  There is a slide sideways vector to this bump that alternates sides.  That vector drives the fed round a little into or a little away from the extractor.  This is why the three point jam is often every other round, as it only jams on one vector.

*Depending on the strength of the firing pin spring, you may want to put a piece of cardboard between your thumb and the back of the slide. The RIA had a strong spring and elicited an "ouch" from me when it hit my thumb.  However, it was minor and there is no bruise or tenderness of my thumb today.

10mm semi-auto handguns / H.O.S.T. DS 5.0 from STI
« on: July 06, 2017, 12:57:06 PM »

Available in 10mm.  Did I just miss this?

10mm semi-auto handguns / SR1911 10mm in hand
« on: June 23, 2017, 07:33:52 AM »
I was able to pick up my SR1911 in 10mm last night from my FFL.  I thought I would give you a brief impressions write up with some pics.

First impression...Well, it is a 1911  We have all seen one before, but gotta start this parade somewhere, so:

It came with two of the magazines in the picture.  They are basic 1911 mags and hold 8 rounds.  Standard round top metal followers.  As typical, these start as the same blanks as any other 1911 magazine, and get the groove to narrow the mag a bit inside and different feed lips.  The mags behave exactly like you would expect.

Next I started checking fit.

The slide is fit nicely, moves smoothly once I removed the shipping oil and got some slipstream styx on the gun.  There is no play side to side or up/down.  If I were to pick a nit, I would say that they could have blended it a little better on the right rear side, but to be honest I didn't notice until I was cropping pictures for here, so it is a pretty fine nit to pick.

The barrel is as advertised and has a nicely recessed crown.

You can see in the picture a bit of copper fouling on the nitride finish.  I wish I could say that I put that copper there, but it is from the factory test fire.

Ruger did mar the finish with the typical warning prominently etched on the bottom of the dust cover.

Thanks mom.  I will do that.

In all fairness I get that in todays world such a warning is very standard.  But, it is very prominent in this location, and is much larger text than any of my other guns.  I really think they could have done this much more subtly.

As we discussed in another thread, the ejection port is lowered, but not flared.  However, the rear edge is filed back some, almost rounded.

I was planning on cutting a flare first thing, but I think I will wait and see what brass looks like first.

Now, for the one real complaint in what is otherwise a pretty flawless basic 1911 execution.  The grip safety is pretty poorly fit IMHO.  It rattles about, it has a good bit of loose play, some of which I can correct with the sear spring, but the side to side play is not likely to be addressed by that.  The beavertail is also interesting.

Maybe I am just out of it, but I have never seen one that scallops back in like that.  It is just wider than the hammer.  I am sure it works well, but it just doesn't look quite right.  Perhaps it will grow on me.

And, I can see reducing it's footprint in this way on a gun designed for concealed carry.  But on a gun that is more about accuracy and power than concealment, I don't get why you alter the profile in this way.  Perhaps this is how all SR1911's are and I just never paid attention.  And perhaps I am more sensitive to it since the part is so poorly fit to begin with.

Takedown was as you would expect for a full length guide-rod.  At some point you have to capture the recoil spring with a paper clip.  The hole is easily accessible with the slide locked to the rear.  I personally capture after I remove the slide, which works to if you are familiar with the method.

The trigger "out of the box" was gritty and had a good bit of creep.  The gun had minimal shipping lube, and shipping lube is more for corrosion protection than friction reduction.  I did not detail strip the gun.  I field stripped and blew some cleaner into the action.  I then lubed it up liberally with Slipstream Styx.  Once that was done the pull smoothed out a bunch.  There is still a tiny bit of creep, but I have only dry fired it about 50 times.  I am certain by 500 rounds in the trigger will be creep free.

I want to end on a high note, so I saved this tidbit for last.  And I didn't think to get a picture of this.  But, I was really surprised by the recoil spring.  First, it is a good stout spring.  I would say a 22 lb spring.  Second, and this is the big one, it is a flat spring.  I expect this spring will stand up well to a long steady diet of full-house 10mm loads.

And, to end on a picture:

Oh!  Weights:

Gun*:  38.1 oz
Barrel: 5.0 oz
Slide: 13.2 oz
Upper: 20.4 oz

*No magazine, which is why the weight is less than the spec weight on Ruger's website.

Gunsmithing / New barrel bushing and better feeding
« on: June 08, 2017, 11:38:45 AM »
I have a Para P16-40 I converted to 10mm many years ago.  I carried the bug as an EDC gun for 3-4 years.  I really prefer the 1911 platform, though to be honest it is because I like levers and buttons, and the 1911 has them.

I never was able to achieve the holy grail of feeding an empty brass casing from the magazine.  The gun ran fine with good mags, so this wasn't a big concern, and none of my other guns will do this either.  But I always thought it would be cool.

About 8-9 months ago I picked up an EGW match grade thick flange barrel bushing on closeout.  It was one of those add-on's that caught my eye as I was checking out at Brownells or Midway or somewhere.  It went in the parts bin for when I had some time to fit it to a gun.

Night before last I had a few minutes and decided to fit it up to my P16.  The bushing started out .005" too small and I opened it up to exactly .001" over the barrel OD.  Assembled the gun, added a spot of oil and ran the action.  Very smooth.

I happened to spot a new starline 10mm case on my desk, and thought, what the into an empty mag it went, into the gun, and when I slingshotted the slide, it went straight into the chamber.  I was floored.

Fluke.  That is what it had to be.  A complete fluke.

So I tried it again.  And again.  And again.

In fact, it worked 7 times in a row before I had to move on.  And three more times last night.

The barrel is a bit tighter when unlocked than it was before.  I guess that is making the difference.  A difference I am very happy about.

10mm semi-auto handguns / Rock Ultra FS HC 10mm inbound
« on: June 08, 2017, 07:32:41 AM »

Should be here in a couple of days.  With shipping and FFL, after rebate, it was right at $650.

More pics and a range report once it is here.

General Discussion / Rock Island Promo
« on: June 07, 2017, 07:36:58 AM »
For those on the fence about an RIA gun, they are running a promo right now:

Looks like $25 credit towards accessories with the purchase of a ROCK or $50 if you buy a TAC.

10mm semi-auto handguns / The Real Problem with the Delta Elite
« on: May 19, 2017, 07:20:50 PM »
I don't personally think it is the un-ramped barrel.  See other recent threads.  The Delta Elite will handle a proof load just fine, just don't count on the brass being usable after.  And in spec ammo will run just fine.

The real problem I see is the general lack of value.  I was just browsing Gunbroker, thinking of what I might add to the 10mm stable next.  I noticed a couple of things.  Among them that the Sig P220 DA/SA Lipseys specials are going for $1,050.00-$1,250.00.  Or one of the Sig Tac Ops 1911 10mm's.  Or a used Dan Wesson if you shop hard.

I had a DE years ago.  I miss it.  I was a fine gun.  I bought it new in box in 1993 for $350.00-$400.00, and I think that was a pretty good value for a 10mm at the time.  There weren't a lot of other options in 10mm at the time.  According to inflation calculators, that is about $575.00-$675.00 in todays buying power.

But today, there are lots of solid options in the 10mm market.  Lost of options I think have better value than the Delta Elite.  I could recommend a Delta Elite over a RIA at $700.00.  I would definitely say get the Colt over the RIA at $650. 

But I don't see picking the Delta Elite over the Sig options.  And I don't see it realistically as much better than the Armscor guns of today.

And that is the real issue I see with the Delta Elite today.

Reloading / MOVED: armscor vs starline
« on: March 13, 2017, 06:52:28 AM »

General Discussion / Gun Safe Rods
« on: March 10, 2017, 07:58:26 AM »
I have a Liberty Safe Company "Franklin 50" safe.  It is a large safe.

But last night, I maxed it out.

This Christmas was a "Garand" Christmas at our house.  I ordered a CMP Field Grade for each of my six children the first week of December.  Though they showed available on the site, I ended up on back order.  I got an email early this week letting me know that service grades could be shipped instead for another $20 per rifle, and those arrived yesterday.  Very nice rifles.  Mix of WWII and post War Springfield rifles all with new CMP wood and wood hardware.  Worst gauge was a throat of 3, with most gauging 1+ at both ends.

But, with the addition of those Garands, the safe if completely full.  In fact, a shotty and a 10-22 had to go on the top shelf since there wasn't room for them in the vertical racks.  Those two guns are being stored for a friend, and they might need to go back.

I am just looking for options to increase my capacity short of spending a bunch on another safe.  I suppose it is inevitable, but I would like to put it off as long as possible.  They have those rods that remove the physical wood slots and replace them.

Does anyone have any experience with the gun rods for gun safes?

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